So Why Not the Carrier?!? – Part 2 of 3
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You can read part 1 here.
Put the carrier in a sunbeam or other comfortable place.
If the cat is suspicious, and doesn’t enter the carrier right away, toss in the treats, and walk away! Don’t try to encourage or coax the cat into the carrier – – they will become suspicious, especially if they have had previous negative experiences with the carrier in the past. Do this every day to start with, and don’t forget to walk away. Cats will soon eat the treats, first it may be when you aren’t watching. And most of them will start to spend time in the carrier.
Sense of Control: To protect themselves, cats want to have a sense of control over their environment. Cats are more secure if they have options to hide and the ability to monitor their environment from a higher place.
If instead of putting them on exam tables at the practice, we allow them to choose whether to be on the floor, in the carrier, or in another place, we will be much more successful in our goals for feline healthcare and reduction of feline – and client! – stress.
Fortunately, if the cat has access to the carrier at home, it becomes a safe hiding place for them at the veterinary hospital, and we can do part or all of the examination while the cat remains in the bottom half of the carrier.
Towels are also good to allow cats to “hide” from us (if the cat doesn’t see us, we aren’t there!).
Hiding is an important protective mechanism for caged cats. Providing a box, a bag, the carrier, a tall cat bed or other “hide-out” will greatly reduce the stress of the caged cat, and gives the cat the choice to stay in hiding or to come out.
Since cats need to feel a sense of control…
In addition to quiet places to sleep, cats need safe places to hide. They need to be able to scamper or jump to safety from perceived threats – the bark of a neighbor’s dog, the ring of a doorbell, a frightening crack of thunder. Your cat will especially appreciate easy access to elevated hiding places, such as a cleared spot on a closet shelf or a strategically situated cardboard box. When the threat is gone, your cat will venture out from the hideaway to investigate the commotion – and, if feeling safe, return to batting a toy about or gazing out the window.
The refuge provides your cat a haven from unfamiliar or risky situations. Give your cat plenty of time to adjust to change
Cats can be trained to use the carrier as a haven. The carrier should be a comfortable, secure place where the cat can rest. Instead of just using it for veterinary visits, which can lead to cats becoming fearful of the carrier, educate clients to leave the carrier out and open at all times. If this is not possible, have clients bring it out regularly for training sessions not associated with veterinary visits, as well as several days before the appointment. Leave a favorite blanket or towel in the carrier, as well as treats and toys. Cats can be trained to go into the carrier to a phrase such as “in”, “travel time”, “treat”, etc. The easiest way is to regularly entice the cat to enter the carrier by throwing in favorite treats, and immediately say the word(s) in a gentle tone, coupled with praise and additional treats.
If the cat still won’t go into the carrier, recommend that they wipe down the cat with a towel and then use the towel to wipe the carrier. The towel is best left within the carrier. The cat will be more attracted to the carrier because it already has his or her scent. The carrier may also be sprayed with Feliway 5-10 minutes before using the carrier. There are data supporting use of lavender or camomille to induce changes in activity associated with a more relaxed state in dogs. This still needs to be investigated in cats.
Carriers that provide the option of loading from the top as well as loading from the front make it easier to get the cat into and out of the carrier in a non-stressful manner. The ideal carrier also allows the top and bottom to be taken apart. The screws or clips can be removed or opened, and top half of the carrier can be removed so that a more timid cat can be remain in the carrier bottom during the veterinary examination.
Nine Lives, But Only One Set of Teeth
George, an 8 year old Domestic Short-hair cat, is in my practice today for a full-mouth extraction. This is an oral surgery that involves removal of all of his teeth.
George is a very fine young man, who to all outward appearances is the picture of health, with a beautiful shiny black coat. However, he has a very ugly mouth. George was brought in to see me because he was drooling. My exam showed that George had severe dental disease including loose teeth, teeth that were broken, and very severe wide-spread inflammation in his mouth called stomatitis. His gums were swollen, raw, and bleeding.
Just because your cat doesn’t act sick or painful doesn’t mean that they’re not, and haven’t been so for a very long time, as George has been. On occasion, my clients will tell me ‘My cat has never been to a vet before,’ or ‘But, she doesn’t act sick,’ or opine that ‘Cats don’t need regular check-ups.’ I inwardly cringe, when I hear such statements, as I reflect on the silent and needless suffering that I’ve witnessed in my patients over the years, George included.
Many cat owners fail to bring their cats in for regular exams, because, to their eyes, their little rascal appears to being going through life with stoicism and equanimity. These little creatures that we share our lives with, unfortunately, do a poor job of telling us when they are sick or in pain, and this is especially true of cats who suffer with hidden oral disease and its associated pain.
One very common condition that affects cats is a tooth resorptive lesion. Tooth resorption is a slow, painful, and irreversible process of destruction of the tooth. It leads to exposure of the sensitive inner structures on the tooth in a process that plays out over months to years, eventually leading to the tooth breaking. Pain in affected teeth is the theme throughout this process.
In addition, cats can suffer similar gum and periodontal diseases that affect humans. These may lead to problems in other areas of the body by providing a chronic source of infection and inflammation. Oral tumors and cancers can also occur. Catching these early problems is essential before they become major problems or before it becomes too late.
Cats may have nine lives, or appear to, but they only have one set of teeth.
Maintaining the health of your cat’s teeth and gums is one of the most important things that you can do to increase the quality and length of your cat’s life. When was the last time you looked in your cat’s mouth? How would you know if she had a loose tooth, a hole in his tooth, severe pain, gingivitis, bleeding and swollen gums, or the beginnings of an oral tumor?
By bringing your cat in for regular and thorough exams, and addressing dental concerns as needed, not only will you be doing your part to lengthen his or her life, but you will also be going a long way to providing an improved quality of life.
I have experienced MANY instances of clients telling me how taking care of their cat’s mouth pain has changed their cat’s lives, attitude, and personality. Comments such as ‘She’s a totally different cat,’ and ‘He’s much more playful,’ are like music to my ears. As I watched George recover from his surgery, in our pediatric incubator earlier today, I felt good in the knowledge that he could look forward to a future without the pain of his past.
Oh No! FLEAS!!!
Though I really love warm weather, I feel a bit of foreboding associated with consistently warm weather because inevitably, a caring cat owner wanting to provide parasite prevention will apply a flea control product meant for dogs on their cat, not realizing how dangerous this can be. Because cats and dogs metabolize medications differently, an ingredient that a dog tolerates with no issue could prove disastrous–potentially even fatal– for a cat. Not only should you never use a flea product formulated for a dog on your cat, but you should be sure to prevent contact between treated dogs and their feline friends until the medication has absorbed.
Another mistake seen all too often is the “more is better” approach that some people take when using flea products. More is NOT better when it comes to chemicals or medications! Always follow the package instructions, and contact a veterinarian if the product does not seem to be working. There is evidence that some flea products have less efficacy than others, so it might be that you need to try a different product, but you should first seek the advice of a professional to make sure it’s safe to apply.
My advice? Discuss parasite control with your veterinarian since he or she knows your cat and can make individual recommendations based on risk. And, veterinarian prescribed products have the benefit of being supported by the companies that manufacture them, so should your cat have a reaction to the product prescribed, the manufacturer will likely cover any veterinary costs associated with any necessary treatment. Whatever product you choose to use to provide parasite control, make sure you keep the product insert and directions handy should your cat have a reaction and take that insert with you to the veterinary hospital if your cat needs care. Fortunately, reactions to today’s well-researched flea and parasite control products are rare.
Cats and Cigarettes – A Lethal Combination
If you are a smoker, then you have probably been told by many people to stop smoking. Get ready to add two more to the list: your veterinarian and your cat!
Cats that live in smoking households are unwilling victims of second hand smoke. Second hand smoke has long been suspected of causing respiratory disease and lung cancer (and other cancers) in cats. Few studies are available, however, a 2002 study by Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine showed that cats living in smoking households were twice a likely to develop feline lymphoma (a type of cancer).
In addition, in smoking households, smoke particles land and cover exposed surfaces, including the cats. These particles (and more picked up through contact) are swallowed by cats during grooming, causing an increased risk of squamous cell carcinoma, a deadly oral cancer. Basically, you are covering your cat in cancer-causing particles.
Lastly, cats that swallow tobacco products can be poisoned by nicotine. Menthol is especially appealing to some cats, making them very dangerous. One cigarette can contain enough nicotine to be toxic to a 5 lb. cat.
Kicking the habit? Congratulations – you may be saving your life and your cat’s life, but please be careful. All nicotine products are poisonous to cats, so be sure they are out of reach. The toxic level of nicotine for cats is 5 mg (milligrams) of nicotine per pound of body weight.
Nicotine levels in various products include:
- Nicotine patches – 8 to 114 mg of nicotine.
- Nicotine gum – 2 to 4 mg per piece.
- Nicotine inhalers – about 4 mg per puff.
- Nasal sprays – 80 to 100 mg per bottle (0.5 mg per spray).
- Cigars – approximately 15 to 40 mg each.
- Chewing tobacco – 6 to 8 mg of nicotine per gram.
- Snuff – 12 to 17 mg of nicotine per gram.
- A cigarette butt can contain 4 – 8 mg since smoking concentrates some of the nicotine in the butt.
So, if you truly love your cat, stop smoking. It is hard, but so important for you and your cat. Need help? Here are some of the many available resources:
Until you quit, please avoid smoking indoors and make sure to keep all Tobacco and nicotine containing products out of your cat’s reach.
Just Quit – Your cat will thank you!
Photo by Tony Stone & Adeline Rapon
Golden Years Cats: Making Their Lives Long, Happy and Healthy!
Time slips by more quickly for our pets than for us. One day we realize that our favorite cute kitty is now a senior citizen. What can we do to help them “live long and prosper”?
Just like for people, nutrition, exercise, medical care, social interactions and environmental modifications improve and optimize our senior cats lives.
Nutrition: many elderly cats have metabolic diseases such as kidney disease or diabetes and do best on a prescription diet targeted toward controlling these diseases. Arthritis is common in older cats and a food high in anti-inflammatory fatty acids such as Hill’s J/D reduces pain and improves mobility. Canned foods increase water consumption and can help prevent constipation and are often more palatable for finicky elderly cats tastes. Increasing the variety of canned foods and warming the food a little can also tempt the appetite of debilitated senior cats. When constipation is significant, adding ¼ tsp. of Miralax over the counter stool softener can help (consult your veterinarian first before starting the Miralax).
Exercise and environmental modifications: the less elderly cats move, the harder it can be for them to maintain their muscle mass and flexibility. Encourage your cat to play using laser pointers, fishing pole type toys, and other interactive toys. Put step stools or chairs out next to beds and windows to help them jump up and down to favorite places. Make sure litter boxes and food and water bowls are easily accessible. Litter boxes should be low enough that the kitty can get in and out of easily. Try to avoid covered litter boxes, as they can be awkward for arthritic kitties to use without bumping their heads. Heated cat beds can soothe aching joints, and make winter temperatures or an air-conditioned home more comfortable for senior cats.
Medical Care: since elderly cats develop many of the same aging health problems that we have, we can greatly improve both the quality and length of their lives with good medical care. It would be nice if our cats could talk to us and tell us how they feel. They can’t. Our senior cats need to be examined and have lab tests taken every 6 months. Given their rapid aging, this is equivalent to every 3-4 years for a human! Many health problems can be prevented, cured, or managed effectively with early intervention. Your cat cannot tell you it is painful, has kidney or dental disease, or arthritis. Your veterinarian can detect those problems and help.
Social interactions: your senior cat may not seek out attention as much as younger cags in the household. They may be marginalized by the other cats in the household and do not have the energy to fight for attention Try to spend 10 minutes twice a day giving extra attention to your senior cat. You will both enjoy it, and it will make the quality of both your lives better!
Tips on Medicating Cats (Part 2 of 2)
You can read part 1 here.
Some cats are more challenging, and none of the previous suggestions will work. Since our goal is getting the medicine into the cat, discuss with your veterinarian when things aren’t working so they can choose another option. “Compounded medications” may be more expensive, but can make life easier for you and your cat. Compounded medications may be available from your veterinarian or from a compounding pharmacy by prescription; your neighborhood pharmacy may not be able to do this. Some pharmacies will mail or ship medications to you.
Options include:
- Flavored Chew Tablets
We have found that beef-flavored metronidazole is working well for Katie! - Liquid Medications
Chicken and fish are two popular flavors. Some cats will take the flavored liquid food mixed into their canned food, making it easy to have pet-sitters medicate your cat when you are away. If not, the oral liquid to squirt in the cat’s mouth can work well. - Transdermal Cream
If your cat will not take anything mixed in food and won’t let you near their mouth, some medications can be formulated into a cream that you rub on the inner (pink) side of the cat’s ear. Methimazole for hyperthyroid cats can be formulated as a transdermal medication. The pharmacy will send syringes or “pens”, and you’ll squirt a measured amount onto a gloved finger (so you don’t medicate yourself!) to rub in your cat’s ear. - Injections
Some cats tolerate a small needle and injection better than anything given by mouth. Again, not all medications are available this way, but if you’re having trouble, ask your veterinarian for help.
We know that giving medicines to cats can be very difficult, and the last thing we want is “Every time my cat sees me, s/he runs away”. So, if things aren’t going well – please contact your veterinarian to let them know. We want the best for your cat – and for you.
Flavored tablets, liquids and some can even be administered as a “transdermal cream”, to rub on the inside (pink part) of the cat’s ears. Some medications are available in injectable form, like giving insulin with a tiny syringe and needle. Since our goal is getting the medicine into the cat, discuss with your veterinarian when things aren’t working so they can choose another option. Compounded medications may be more expensive, but can make life easier for you and your cat.
Pleasant Pet Visits
How can I get my cat into the carrier and to the vet?
Fear is the primary cause of misbehavior. Knowing this can help prevent problematic veterinary visits.
GETTING YOUR CAT INTO THE CARRIER
- Keep the carrier out in the home. Put treats inside. Train cats to view the carrier as a safe haven and “home away from home.” A quick response is crucial in case of disaster or emergency.
- Carriers that have both a top and a front opening are best. Top-loading carriers allow for stress-free placement and removal of the cat. A removable carrier top enables cats to be examined while remaining in the bottom half of the carrier. Do not “dump” a cat out of the carrier.
ADJUSTING TO CAR RIDES
- Always put the cat in a carrier or other safe container.
- Take the cat for regular car rides, beginning with very short ones, to places other than the veterinary hospital.
- To prevent car sickness, do not feed before traveling.
- Reward verbally, with positive attention, and with treats.
VETERINARY VISITS
- Bring along the cat’s favorite treats, toys, and blanket.
- Perform regular home maintenance procedures, including grooming, nail trimming, teeth brushing.
- ”Play vet” procedures that mimic temperature taking, ear cleaning, and pilling can help cats better adjust to the veterinary hospital and to future home care when necessary.
- Regular trips to the veterinary hospital for “fun” visits involving no examinations or procedures provide owners and staff with the opportunity to reward the cat with praise and food treats.
What? Adopt a(nother) Cat?
It’s June already, the grill’s out and ready to go! OK, so you current cat avoids the barbie- and that’s a good thing because it’s dangerous! So while it’s fun to think that your cat might become the household cook (and if any pet could it would be the cat since dogs would just steal the food off the counter and eat it right then and there, wrapper and all), it’s much better to think about getting a(nother) cat for fun, affection and entertainment.
June is Adopt a Cat Month, celebrated by the American Humane Association, American Veterinary Medical Association, ASPCA, CATalyst Council and petfinder.com. Here are the Top 5 Joys of Owning a Cat and now that you’re convinced, check out the Top Ten Checklist for Adopting a Cat. Cats are social animals, so a feline friend can be a great addition to your family- just do a little research in advance. The best way to celebrate AND help your community is to visit your local shelter, look on their website, or check out petfinder.com or adoptapet.com to see what cat is in your area and which purrsonality is right for your household.
According to Jan McHugh-Smith, President of the Humane Society of Pikes Peak Region in Colorado Springs, adopting an older cat is especially rewarding. “Adult cats are just big kittens with developed personalities. They come in all shape, sizes and colors; you can adopt a cool cat, a lap cat, a fat cat. Just adopt.”
Your veterinarian can provide you information on how to proceed AND how to introduce a new cat (and check out the felinedocs blog post), and the veterinary team may even have some leads on some cats that need a loving home!
So start planning that summertime dinner party to celebrate Adopt a Cat Month! More chicken, please….
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