Introducing a New Cat to your Home
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Buddy had lived with May since he was a kitten. About four years later, May thought she was getting too busy to spend an adequate amount of time with Buddy. She adopted a one year old neutered male, Bubbah. She put food, water and a bed on one end of the guest room and a litterbox at the other. Bubbah settled in and May spent as much time as she could becoming friends. She bought special toys and a special climbing tree just for him.
The introduction of a new cat into the household must be done carefully. Cats who live in colonies in the wild drive away strangers. Buddy’s instinct will be the same. After a time in separate quarters, slow introductions can be made. A door that is open enough for the cats to see one another (but not touch) is a good first step. The extra resources – feeding place, water bowl, cat tree, resting place – are important. Each cat should have everything he needs and no need to share. As solitary hunters, sharing isn’t a concept they are willing to accept.
Supervised “dates” come next, as the cats are introduced to each other. If there is nervousness, an escape route is key. Food helps as a distraction. If they ignore each other that is the best outcome. Slowly increasing the time they are allowed to be in the same part of the house over time will reduce the stress of the “foreign” cat occupying the “home range” of the previously “only” cat. This is seen as an invasion if it takes place too quickly and the natural reflex to either drive the stranger away or flee himself can be prevented.
It is important to have realistic expectations. These two cats will likely tolerate one another and divide up the house into a timesharing arrangement. It is rare for two unrelated adults to become bonded, though it is not impossible.
So Why Not the Carrier?!? Part 3 of 3
You can read part 1 here and part 2 here.
To overcoming barriers to taking cats to the veterinary clinic, we need to better understand the cat and why they react as they do, reduce the stress of transporting the cat, and making the cat and the client more comfortable at the clinic. The benefits include increased cat visits and client compliance, increased job satisfaction and safety, and a financially more successful practice. It’s not enough anymore to have excellent surgical and medical knowledge – our clients don’t care how much we know until they know how much we care – for them and their cats.
UNDERSTANDING THE CAT:
Cats have retained many behaviors of their wild ancestors. They are excellent hunters, with a strong ability to sense and avoid danger. In order to protect themselves, cats don’t display pain and illness as dogs and humans do.
Cats don’t like change – unless it is something they choose to do. Trips to the veterinary hospital, the hospital environment, and handling by unfamiliar people are huge changes for cats.
Cats are social animals, though their social structure is different from humans and dogs. If sufficient food resources, cats choose to live in social or colonies. Females live together cooperatively, nursing and raising the young. Cats choose affiliates with whom they are social.
The cat’s perceives its world through its senses, most of which are highly sensitive compared with ours. Cats also communicate with their senses, providing scent marking, visual and auditory cues. The primary goal of cat communication is to prevent altercations; cats fight only as a last resort, when other communications have failed.
Sarah Heath: One of the important feline coping strategies in terms of social stress is to hide and in many modern multi- cat households this is often not possible due to the human preference for floor to ceiling furniture and open plan rooms! Lack of access to retreats can result in cats feeling exposed and vulnerable and when coupled with insufficient supply of other vital resources, such as food and water, the result can be chronic stress which leads to self directed behaviours such as over grooming.
Let’s now develop a plan for one of the more challenging situations that you as cat owners have – getting your cat to the veterinary hospital. We know that veterinary care is tremendously important for your cat, but how do we make the visits more familiar and allow the cat to have control? It’s actually not that hard if we remember to follow the Happy Cat Rules, and break our plan down into steps to help our cats have what they need to cope. And the underlying concepts can be used with any care at home, and when introducing your cat to new situations or people.
The absolutely most important step is to bring your carrier out of the basement, garage, or closet, and move it permanently to a room where your cat likes to be. For example, the cats that “own” my husband and me hang out in the kitchen when we are home, and their carriers are in the kitchen. Place a fleece jacket – or other soft piece of clothing that has your scent on it, or a blanket or soft cat bed that your cat loves to sleep on, into the carrier. This provides a comfortable place for your cat to rest, and a safe haven – cats feel more secure if they have a hiding place in unfamiliar situations.
It may take awhile for your cat to get used to the carrier because of previous negative experiences associated with it. Remain calm, and toss some favorite treats – either dry kibble or food treats that your cat likes, or catnip – into the carrier every day. If you need to use treats, use the most favorite ones, and only for the carrier experience, at least until your cat comfortably rests or sleeps in the carrier on its own.
If your cat is afraid of the carrier because of previous negative experiences, start by tossing the favored treats in front of the carrier. Then walk away. Let the cat choose to go into the carrier itself. He or she may start at night, when they know that you cannot close them into the carrier – that is a success! It may take 2 weeks, but if done calmly on your part, it can lead to a calmer and more content kitty in our busy households, and less stressful travel and veterinary visits for your cat – and you!
Once your cat is routinely going into the carrier, calmly close the door and give a treat. After several days of this, close the door and move the carrier to another room. Reward. Eventually, get your cat comfortable with car rides, and “friendly” visits to the vet, where your cat can get treats and go home. It’s best to call before you come to schedule a time when it isn’t too busy so that it will be easier on your cat.
Bring favorite treats and toys whenever you bring your cat to the veterinary hospital. Again this helps with familiarity. Also it allows you to calmly distract your cat from other things happening at the vet.
Make sure to separate your cat from unfamiliar cats while at the clinic. Although cats are social animals, with some more outgoing than others (like people!), even the most curious and outgoing cat is likely to be frightened by others in an unfamiliar environment such as the veterinary hospital, where there are unfamiliar smells, sounds, and sights of unknown cats and people.
Try to remain calm yourself to help keep your cat calm. Cats are intuitive, and they pick up on our fear and anxiety. Also, watch your cat’s body language for signs of fear – ears back, even if slightly; pupils dilated; body tense, fur standing up, or crouching position – and calmly cover the carrier to allow your cat a comfortable and familiar hiding place.
If your cat is still anxious during car rides or veterinary visits, talk to your veterinarian about Feli-way, a synthetic feline cheek pheromone, which helps calm most cats and makes the an environment more familiar. There are also anti-anxiety medications that can be prescribed, or anti-nausea for the car sick kitty.
Rabies: Risks and Remedies
“Why does my inside cat need a rabies vaccine?” I hear this question many times a week at my practice, and certainly the chance that Fluffy will break out of the house and get into a bloody battle with a rabid raccoon or fox is pretty slim. Then why do our pampered house cats need to get these vaccines?
One reason we want all pets protected against rabies is that if they become infected, they can spread that disease to people. This is why most states mandate through law that pets must be vaccinated against rabies, and also that pets will be quarantined if they are unvaccinated and either bite someone or are exposed to a rabies suspect.
Most of us are familiar with rabies. It is a terrible, horrible disease that is uniformly fatal unless treatment is started immediately. It is transmitted from an infected animal through a bite wound—more specifically, through that infected animal’s saliva. The rabies virus infects the brain and nervous system, and the classic image of a person or animal convulsing and in a “rage” state is what happens once that virus follows its deadly path.
Clearly, even though rabies is relatively uncommon, it is not something any of us wants to experience, and also not anything we’d want our cats to get exposed to. But because complications can occur with any medical procedure, including giving a vaccine, we might hesitate if we believe that the likelihood of an infection or exposure to rabies is rare. We know that there can be a risk of an adverse reaction with common, everyday immunizations. Even if we adjust that cost/benefit scale because rabies is so lethal, is the potential risk associated with vaccination worth the protection?
I vaccinate my three indoor cats against rabies. I do this to protect them, but also to protect my family. Why is this important? For me, it is really not that I believe the cats are going to get out of the house, but that I know something is more likely to get in…
Bats are the biggest carrier of rabies in North America, and I can’t tell you the number of times bats have been swooping around inside my house, and inside many of my client’s homes. All of our cats react the same way: party time! A bat is the ultimate animated cat toy. And sometimes that “cat toy” is carrying a dangerous and lethal virus. All it takes is one bite. Rabies vaccines are really, really effective, and dying from rabies is not at all pleasant.
And sometimes wacky things do happen. Last week one of my clients told me that he walked into his kitchen to get some coffee and found his cat sharing her food bowl with a raccoon! Evidently this raccoon had come into the house through the pet door, and decided things looked good enough to hang around. Happily, Sheba was vaccinated and didn’t need to spend 6 months quarantined (yet another reason to keep your cat protected!)
So, please protect your cats! There are intelligent reasons to do so, and the safe and effective vaccines available today make that decision much simpler.
The Heart Of The Matter
Probably one of the most frustrating things to come out of my mouth are the words “ I hear a heart murmur and it may or may not be a problem. “ So why can’t I just tell you straight up if there’s trouble or not? Well, just like that recent movie title, it’s complicated. Why is it so frustrating? Because it’s really important to know if the cat in front of you has a problem and you can’t tell that without doing more stuff. About 40% of the cats with murmurs or gallops have significant disease. That may mean that you need to treat, manage other disease and anesthesia differently, or avoid anesthesia all together. The other 60% have murmurs for other reasons and those cats may be just fine. You may even know people who are walking around with murmurs that don’t have a sick heart. But the thing is, you don’t know which cats are which on the exam table. Cats are very different than other creatures in how they show you that they’re in trouble. While a dog or person might have a gradual onset of signs like cough, exercise intolerance or swollen legs, cats are fine one minute and in a crisis the next. It is the primary reason to find a cat dead with no warning. It’s pretty easy to push a cat into heart failure if there’s significant disease with too much fluid, certain medicines and stress, so if your cat has a murmur, your vet will want to know what’s going on before doing certain treatment plans or surgery. And they look just fine before there’s trouble. There are a lot of cats out there with significant heart disease that don’t even have murmurs or gallops. Just like a cat, to hide every sign of illness it can.
On top of everything else, getting an accurate diagnosis of just what’s going on in your cat’s heart isn’t easy. The only definitive test is a cardiac ultrasound performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with cat hearts. X rays, ECGs and some newer blood tests can pick up sick hearts if they’ve progressed far enough into the disease, but those tests can be normal even when there’s a problem. So for my money, if I really need to know the status of my patient’s heart, I’m going to tell you to get a heart ultrasound so that you know for sure. Then we can develop a treatment plan that best manages the situation. Or.. go celebrate because everything looks great.
You can stop reading now if you want. But if you are a detail person and need a little more explanation about what’s going on, keep going.
Vets get that worried look on their brow if they hear any kind of abnormality when they are listening to your cat’s heart. Most of the time, that abnormality is in the form of a heart murmur or a three beat rhythm called a gallop. A murmur just means that you can hear the turbulence of blood as it courses through the heart. You get it any time a flowing liquid meets up with an obstacle. I kind of like the babbling brook analogy. Water running through a nice clear PVC pipe doesn’t make much noise, but water running in a stream bed full of pretty rocks and boulders makes a pleasant, relaxing babbling sound. That stream has a murmur. How does that happen in a heart? In cats, the usual culprit is blood slapping up against a bulge of muscle that occurs when the heart contracts. Other things can happen too and the type of problem that causes it can be very different from animal to animal. When the heart muscle gets big, it’s called hypertrophy. Parts of the heart can get so big that it actually impedes the out flow of blood and that’s when your cat gets in trouble. Now sometimes, the electrical current that runs through the heart that coordinates all the opening and shutting of the valves, gets all messed up because of the muscle hypertrophy. That’s when you can hear the funny 3 beat rate called a gallop. That probably happens because the big heart muscle doesn’t let the electrical current pass through it evenly. So the valves may not close in tandem, and voila, you get 3 clear heart sounds. Most of the time the pump (the heart), is doing its job trying to keep pushing blood through. But with hypertrophic cardiomyopathy, one of the most common heart diseases, the problem really is that the amount of blood that can be pumped out is so low because the big, stiff heart muscle getting in the way. It may be fine when a cat is resting, but when that heart rate increases, the muscle scrunches up and doesn’t let any blood get through.
So there you have it. That’s why I’m going to tell you that your cat may or may not have significant heart disease. But I’m always going to recommend that you get it checked out because I don’t want your cat to be in that 40% that needs special attention. I’m a happy vet when the ultrasound report says no problem.
Is My Cat Driving Me Crazy?
Dear Dr. Brown;
My boyfriend sent me this article today… can you please address when you have a moment?
Many thanks,
Robin : )
Thank you for the question Robin. There have been many sensationalize eye-catching headlines about this (This seems to be the next zombie apocalypse). It is always important to separate the science from the hysteria. No one wants to contract a parasite.
The current literature states that Toxoplasma, defined by NIH and the Mayo Clinic, is of concern only for pregnant women and immune suppressed people. For most everyone else, the infection is latent and does not cause any problems.
There have been 3 recent articles that have fanned fears about toxoplasmosis. We have to remember that the work on this will be continuing and these studies need to be reviewed and duplicated.
- The first study is a rat study from Stanford and postulated that Toxoplasmosis can affect the behavior of rats.
Read the article → - The second study is from the University of Maryland. It is a retrospective study of 45,000 Danish women and suicide rates.
Read the article → - The third article is from Atlantic Monthly and it features a Czech biologist who feels that Toxoplasmosis may alter human behavior. All of these are provocative and make for great headlines. Time will tell and more study will show if there is a correlation.
Read the article →
The best way to prevent any problems is to avoid infection:
- Most people get Toxoplasmosis from improperly cooked meat. The CDC recommends cooking meat properly. I am providing a link to the CDC to help define properly cooked meat.
- Freezing meet to sub-zero temperatures for several days decreases the chances for infection.
- Always be sure to peel and wash fruits and vegetable before eating.
- Be sure to washing cutting boards and utensils with hot soapy water after contact with raw meat, or unwashed fruits or vegetables.
- Wash your hands frequently.
What about my cat?
If you feed commercially prepared or cooked foods it decreases your cat’s chances of becoming exposed to Toxoplasmosis. Keeping your cat indoors also decreases his/her chance of acquiring the parasite.
Cats are the definitive host for Toxoplasmosis or to borrow from Dr Robert Yolken from Johns Hopkins University. The world for the parasite is divided into two parts – Cats and Non-Cats.
Toxoplasma wants to be in cats because it leads its entire lifecycle in cats, but not in non-cats. Again from Dr Yolken – “Now toxoplasma gets into another animal, it’s still alive, but it’s not very happy. What I’m fond of saying is that it’s kind of like a young person living in New Jersey. The person is alive but perhaps would rather be somewhere else… so in New York City or Philadelphia or Washington. Somewhere…”
My apologies to any readers in the Garden State.
Cats only shed the Toxoplasmosis eggs one week in their entire lives. The eggs need 48 hours to “hatch”. Frequent cleaning of the litter box with gloves can help decrease the chance of getting infected. Washing your hands is very important.
Hopefully some common sense and good hygiene habits will help protect you from many pathogens. It seems to come down to all the good habits you were taught, as child will help protect you.
Separating the facts from fiction or pseudoscience is very important to eliminate needless fear.
You can read the full NPR interview here.
How to Administer Subcutaneous Fluids
Administration of supplemental fluids can benefit cats with a variety of medical conditions. Most commonly, this is recommended for cats with kidney disease. We recommend that you learn this technique for your cat. Don’t be alarmed – it is normal to feel apprehension about this. Giving injections is outside the comfort zone for most everyone outside the medical profession. However, fluid administration is not nearly as difficult as it sounds and often easier than orally medicating. The benefits provided to your cat will make it well worth your time to learn this simple technique.
What equipment is involved?
The equipment consists of a bag of fluids, a drip set, and a needle. The drip set is simply a tube that connects the fluid bag to the needle. You will eventually become comfortable with the steps involved.
- Remove the inner bag from the outer protective bag.
- Remove the drip set from its packaging.
- Pull the protective covering from the exit port on the bottom end of the fluid bag. This will expose a hole that will accept the pointed end of the drip set.
- The top end of the drip set has a large, pointed end with a protective cap. Remove this cap, but do not allow it to become contaminated. IT SHOULD NOT TOUCH ANYTHING.
- Push the pointed end of the drip set into the open hole of the fluid bag. It must be seated firmly to prevent leaks.
- Remove the protective cap from the lower end of the drip set, but do not discard it. Do not allow it to become contaminated. IT SHOULD NOT TOUCH ANYTHING.
- Close the lock in the middle of the drip set tubing by moving the roller. (The lock on a new drip set is often already in the open position.)
- Gently squeeze and release the bulb at the top of the drip set until the bulb chamber is about half full with fluid.
- Open the lock (roller) on the tubing and then hold or suspend the fluid bag; fluid should flow freely.
- Be sure that all air bubbles run out of the tubing.
- Close the lock on the drip set line by rolling the roller downward.
- Remove the protective cap on the lower end of the drip set.
- Break the protective covering around the needle so that the open end (not the sharp end) is exposed. Do not allow it to become contaminated by allowing it to touch ANYTHING.
- Remove the protective cap from the lower end of the drip set, and place the open end of the needle on it. Seat it firmly.
How is the needle inserted?
Insert the needle just under the skin in one of several locations that have unusually loose skin. These include:
- At the level of the shoulder blades, just to the right and to the left of midline.
- At the level of the back legs, just to the right and to the left of midline.
What is the correct technique?
- Choose a location where you will treat your cat. This may be on a table, countertop, or on your lap.
- Hang the fluid bag about 3 feet (1 meter) above the level of your cat’s head.
- Place your cat in the treatment location. Be sure both of you are in a position that will be comfortable for about 10-15 minutes. The end of the drip set should easily reach your cat.
- Pick up a roll of loose skin in one of the above locations.
- Lay the point of the needle at the base of the roll of skin with the needle horizontal and pointing to the cat’s head. This assumes that the cat is in an upright position.
- Advance the needle slightly forward while pulling the roll of skin backward. That should place the point of the needle under the skin.
- Release the roll of skin. The point of the needle should remain under the skin.
- Grasp the drip set lock in one hand. Begin the flow of fluids by rolling the roller upward.
- NOTE: Some cats are more cooperative if they are placed in a box or bed not much larger than the cat. A cardboard cat carrier or regular cat bed are often the correct size.
How much fluid should I give each time?
You will be given instructions by the veterinarian that tell how much to give for your specific situation. As a rule, the average sized cat should receive 100-150 ml of fluids at one time. If you are using two spots, you should give half of that amount in each location.
When you have given the prescribed amount, complete the following steps:
- Stop the flow of fluids by rolling the roller in the drip set lock downward firmly. If you do not close it well and the bag is left hanging, fluid will drip out.
- Remove the needle from the skin and replace its protective cap.
- PLACE A NEW, STERILE NEEDLE ON THE DRIP SET AS SOON AS YOU ARE THROUGH. This keeps bacteria that were picked up on the old needle from migrating into the fluids. You should properly dispose of the needles in a sharps container.
- Store the equipment in a safe place until the next fluid administration.
What other tips do I need to know?
It is not necessary to “sterilize” the skin with alcohol before inserting the needle. In reality, wiping a little alcohol on the skin does not really sterilize it, and the odor and feel of alcohol may aggravate your cat. Many cats will taste the alcohol and begin to drool profusely. Most cats tolerate fluid administration quite well. However, if the fluids are unusually cold or hot, they may be uncomfortable. Ideally, they should be at about body temperature. However, as long as they are at room temperature most cats are fine. Do not refrigerate them. As the fluids are running, a lump will form under the skin. Do not be alarmed; this is the pocket of fluid that will be absorbed over several hours. If absorption is slow, gravity may cause the fluids to migrate downward. They could move under the skin of the front or rear legs. However, if this happens, they will still be absorbed.
There is no problem if a few bubbles of air are injected under the skin. If quite a bit of air gets under the skin, you may feel a crackling sound when you push on the skin, and your cat may experience mild discomfort for a couple of hours, but no real harm will occur. The body will eventually absorb the air.
What to do if the fluids stop running:
This often happens when the end of the needle moves against the skin or the underlying tissue. Do not remove the needle; rather, gently reposition it until the fluids begin to flow again. Experiment with the needle’s position until the fluids flow freely. Twisting the needle will change the position of the bevel. This may be all that is needed.
What to do if the fluid runs slowly on subsequent treatments:
When you are finished giving fluids, you should close the lock firmly. However, closing the lock firmly may crush the tubing so that fluid will not flow well on subsequent use. If this happens, move the lock to another place on the IV tubing, and open the crushed area of the tube by pinching it with your fingers.
What to do if the fluids become cloudy in appearance:
If any cloudiness or discoloration occurs, do not use the bag. It usually means that the fluids have become contaminated with bacteria. If you administer these fluids to your cat, a serious infection may occur under the skin.
So Why Not the Carrier?!? – Part 2 of 3
You can read part 1 here.
Put the carrier in a sunbeam or other comfortable place.
If the cat is suspicious, and doesn’t enter the carrier right away, toss in the treats, and walk away! Don’t try to encourage or coax the cat into the carrier – – they will become suspicious, especially if they have had previous negative experiences with the carrier in the past. Do this every day to start with, and don’t forget to walk away. Cats will soon eat the treats, first it may be when you aren’t watching. And most of them will start to spend time in the carrier.
Sense of Control: To protect themselves, cats want to have a sense of control over their environment. Cats are more secure if they have options to hide and the ability to monitor their environment from a higher place.
If instead of putting them on exam tables at the practice, we allow them to choose whether to be on the floor, in the carrier, or in another place, we will be much more successful in our goals for feline healthcare and reduction of feline – and client! – stress.
Fortunately, if the cat has access to the carrier at home, it becomes a safe hiding place for them at the veterinary hospital, and we can do part or all of the examination while the cat remains in the bottom half of the carrier.
Towels are also good to allow cats to “hide” from us (if the cat doesn’t see us, we aren’t there!).
Hiding is an important protective mechanism for caged cats. Providing a box, a bag, the carrier, a tall cat bed or other “hide-out” will greatly reduce the stress of the caged cat, and gives the cat the choice to stay in hiding or to come out.
Since cats need to feel a sense of control…
In addition to quiet places to sleep, cats need safe places to hide. They need to be able to scamper or jump to safety from perceived threats – the bark of a neighbor’s dog, the ring of a doorbell, a frightening crack of thunder. Your cat will especially appreciate easy access to elevated hiding places, such as a cleared spot on a closet shelf or a strategically situated cardboard box. When the threat is gone, your cat will venture out from the hideaway to investigate the commotion – and, if feeling safe, return to batting a toy about or gazing out the window.
The refuge provides your cat a haven from unfamiliar or risky situations. Give your cat plenty of time to adjust to change
Cats can be trained to use the carrier as a haven. The carrier should be a comfortable, secure place where the cat can rest. Instead of just using it for veterinary visits, which can lead to cats becoming fearful of the carrier, educate clients to leave the carrier out and open at all times. If this is not possible, have clients bring it out regularly for training sessions not associated with veterinary visits, as well as several days before the appointment. Leave a favorite blanket or towel in the carrier, as well as treats and toys. Cats can be trained to go into the carrier to a phrase such as “in”, “travel time”, “treat”, etc. The easiest way is to regularly entice the cat to enter the carrier by throwing in favorite treats, and immediately say the word(s) in a gentle tone, coupled with praise and additional treats.
If the cat still won’t go into the carrier, recommend that they wipe down the cat with a towel and then use the towel to wipe the carrier. The towel is best left within the carrier. The cat will be more attracted to the carrier because it already has his or her scent. The carrier may also be sprayed with Feliway 5-10 minutes before using the carrier. There are data supporting use of lavender or camomille to induce changes in activity associated with a more relaxed state in dogs. This still needs to be investigated in cats.
Carriers that provide the option of loading from the top as well as loading from the front make it easier to get the cat into and out of the carrier in a non-stressful manner. The ideal carrier also allows the top and bottom to be taken apart. The screws or clips can be removed or opened, and top half of the carrier can be removed so that a more timid cat can be remain in the carrier bottom during the veterinary examination.
Nine Lives, But Only One Set of Teeth
George, an 8 year old Domestic Short-hair cat, is in my practice today for a full-mouth extraction. This is an oral surgery that involves removal of all of his teeth.
George is a very fine young man, who to all outward appearances is the picture of health, with a beautiful shiny black coat. However, he has a very ugly mouth. George was brought in to see me because he was drooling. My exam showed that George had severe dental disease including loose teeth, teeth that were broken, and very severe wide-spread inflammation in his mouth called stomatitis. His gums were swollen, raw, and bleeding.
Just because your cat doesn’t act sick or painful doesn’t mean that they’re not, and haven’t been so for a very long time, as George has been. On occasion, my clients will tell me ‘My cat has never been to a vet before,’ or ‘But, she doesn’t act sick,’ or opine that ‘Cats don’t need regular check-ups.’ I inwardly cringe, when I hear such statements, as I reflect on the silent and needless suffering that I’ve witnessed in my patients over the years, George included.
Many cat owners fail to bring their cats in for regular exams, because, to their eyes, their little rascal appears to being going through life with stoicism and equanimity. These little creatures that we share our lives with, unfortunately, do a poor job of telling us when they are sick or in pain, and this is especially true of cats who suffer with hidden oral disease and its associated pain.
One very common condition that affects cats is a tooth resorptive lesion. Tooth resorption is a slow, painful, and irreversible process of destruction of the tooth. It leads to exposure of the sensitive inner structures on the tooth in a process that plays out over months to years, eventually leading to the tooth breaking. Pain in affected teeth is the theme throughout this process.
In addition, cats can suffer similar gum and periodontal diseases that affect humans. These may lead to problems in other areas of the body by providing a chronic source of infection and inflammation. Oral tumors and cancers can also occur. Catching these early problems is essential before they become major problems or before it becomes too late.
Cats may have nine lives, or appear to, but they only have one set of teeth.
Maintaining the health of your cat’s teeth and gums is one of the most important things that you can do to increase the quality and length of your cat’s life. When was the last time you looked in your cat’s mouth? How would you know if she had a loose tooth, a hole in his tooth, severe pain, gingivitis, bleeding and swollen gums, or the beginnings of an oral tumor?
By bringing your cat in for regular and thorough exams, and addressing dental concerns as needed, not only will you be doing your part to lengthen his or her life, but you will also be going a long way to providing an improved quality of life.
I have experienced MANY instances of clients telling me how taking care of their cat’s mouth pain has changed their cat’s lives, attitude, and personality. Comments such as ‘She’s a totally different cat,’ and ‘He’s much more playful,’ are like music to my ears. As I watched George recover from his surgery, in our pediatric incubator earlier today, I felt good in the knowledge that he could look forward to a future without the pain of his past.
Oh No! FLEAS!!!
Though I really love warm weather, I feel a bit of foreboding associated with consistently warm weather because inevitably, a caring cat owner wanting to provide parasite prevention will apply a flea control product meant for dogs on their cat, not realizing how dangerous this can be. Because cats and dogs metabolize medications differently, an ingredient that a dog tolerates with no issue could prove disastrous–potentially even fatal– for a cat. Not only should you never use a flea product formulated for a dog on your cat, but you should be sure to prevent contact between treated dogs and their feline friends until the medication has absorbed.
Another mistake seen all too often is the “more is better” approach that some people take when using flea products. More is NOT better when it comes to chemicals or medications! Always follow the package instructions, and contact a veterinarian if the product does not seem to be working. There is evidence that some flea products have less efficacy than others, so it might be that you need to try a different product, but you should first seek the advice of a professional to make sure it’s safe to apply.
My advice? Discuss parasite control with your veterinarian since he or she knows your cat and can make individual recommendations based on risk. And, veterinarian prescribed products have the benefit of being supported by the companies that manufacture them, so should your cat have a reaction to the product prescribed, the manufacturer will likely cover any veterinary costs associated with any necessary treatment. Whatever product you choose to use to provide parasite control, make sure you keep the product insert and directions handy should your cat have a reaction and take that insert with you to the veterinary hospital if your cat needs care. Fortunately, reactions to today’s well-researched flea and parasite control products are rare.
Cats and Cigarettes – A Lethal Combination
If you are a smoker, then you have probably been told by many people to stop smoking. Get ready to add two more to the list: your veterinarian and your cat!
Cats that live in smoking households are unwilling victims of second hand smoke. Second hand smoke has long been suspected of causing respiratory disease and lung cancer (and other cancers) in cats. Few studies are available, however, a 2002 study by Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine showed that cats living in smoking households were twice a likely to develop feline lymphoma (a type of cancer).
In addition, in smoking households, smoke particles land and cover exposed surfaces, including the cats. These particles (and more picked up through contact) are swallowed by cats during grooming, causing an increased risk of squamous cell carcinoma, a deadly oral cancer. Basically, you are covering your cat in cancer-causing particles.
Lastly, cats that swallow tobacco products can be poisoned by nicotine. Menthol is especially appealing to some cats, making them very dangerous. One cigarette can contain enough nicotine to be toxic to a 5 lb. cat.
Kicking the habit? Congratulations – you may be saving your life and your cat’s life, but please be careful. All nicotine products are poisonous to cats, so be sure they are out of reach. The toxic level of nicotine for cats is 5 mg (milligrams) of nicotine per pound of body weight.
Nicotine levels in various products include:
- Nicotine patches – 8 to 114 mg of nicotine.
- Nicotine gum – 2 to 4 mg per piece.
- Nicotine inhalers – about 4 mg per puff.
- Nasal sprays – 80 to 100 mg per bottle (0.5 mg per spray).
- Cigars – approximately 15 to 40 mg each.
- Chewing tobacco – 6 to 8 mg of nicotine per gram.
- Snuff – 12 to 17 mg of nicotine per gram.
- A cigarette butt can contain 4 – 8 mg since smoking concentrates some of the nicotine in the butt.
So, if you truly love your cat, stop smoking. It is hard, but so important for you and your cat. Need help? Here are some of the many available resources:
Until you quit, please avoid smoking indoors and make sure to keep all Tobacco and nicotine containing products out of your cat’s reach.
Just Quit – Your cat will thank you!
Photo by Tony Stone & Adeline Rapon
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