Why Cats Pee on Your Stuff – A Veterinarian’s Perspective
In a recent blog contribution, Dr. Ray recommended trying to evaluate a cat’s litter box from a cat’s perspective. Boy, was his article timely! I just had one of the more frustrating conversations I have had with a client about their cats that were not reliably using their boxes and feel really badly for this owner’s cats, because the owner was not willing to listen to what I had to say about making the litter boxes desirable for the cats, not him. I get that we want cats to easily integrate into our homes and that one of their more desirable characteristics is that they are supposed to be clean and low maintenance, but the reality is that though cats have been domesticated, they remain guided mostly by their instincts.
For more than two decades now, people have recognized that for most cats it is not safe for them to roam freely outdoors. Cats have become cherished family members rather than utilitarian mousers that were almost considered by some to be disposable. I absolutely celebrate this fact, but am disturbed that a lot of cat owners don’t take the time to learn about cat care and how to create the optimum environment for one or more cats when they bring home a cat. Most people wouldn’t think about getting a reptile or another exotic pet without making sure they insured the pet would have the right habitat, but lots of people with take home a kitten and assume providing food and water and a litter box is all they will need.
The reality is that though most cats are low maintenance, the environment from their perspective (read not ours) is super important for the cat to thrive and to be healthy. It is paramount that all cat owners understand the concept of resource availability as a cat sees it. Resources for a cat refers to their ability to procure food, water, a comfortable place to rest and access to their litter pan without feeling threatened. Keep in mind that what a cat is threatened by can be very different than what a person is threatened by. Just like people’s personalities and anxiety levels vary, cats are not all wired the same. And just because a cat is a cat and another cat is a cat, it doesn’t mean they will like each other any more than two strangers will like one another. Think about it – would you meet a stranger on the street and within minutes ask that person to come home to live with you? That is sort of what most of us do when we acquire cats and decide to get them a cat buddy. We bring the buddy cat home and tell the original cat to enjoy their new friend. What if they don’t have any “chemistry” together?
So, let’s continue to celebrate cats and protect them from the various threats they can encounter outdoors, but let’s all try real hard to remember to periodically evaluate the home we offer our cat or cats from a cat’s perspective. Those of us who want to share our home with a cat, need to remember that is what we are doing. We are sharing, so it can’t be all on our terms!
Poop Kentucky Derby
Ever wonder why your cat sprints out of the litter box after voiding or even around the house out of the blue?
Cats have different types of behaviors, but certainly play behaviors are one of the most interesting. Different play behaviors will begin as early as 2 weeks of age. Chasing type behaviors manifest around 5 weeks of age and serve to improve hunting skills, social interactions with other cats and general exercise.
Most owners have seen their cats sprint around the house as if they are chasing or being chased by another cat with their pupils dilated and perhaps even pausing to yowl or chortle.
This type of behavior is termed “hallucinatory” behavior and often occurs immediately after your cat urinates or defecates. There are different theories as to why the behavior occurs upon exiting the box, including a feeling of well being and increased energy after evacuation, a sense of empowerment after creating their characteristic scent, or a reminder of natural instincts requiring leaving the scene and scent behind quickly to prevent being preyed upon.
However, sometimes the behavior can be associated with dislike of the box size or location, dislike of the type of litter, fear of attack by other cats in the household, pain associated with urination or defecation or sometimes fecal matter adhering to the hair after defecation.
If your cat spends at least 15-20 seconds scratching or burying in the box, chances are they are happy with their litter. Cats that have pain on urination or defecation will often times vocalize in a distressed manner and may urinate or defecate outside the box as well. Occasionally small drops of blood may even be seen. Inappropriate elimination, (urinating or defecating in locations other than the box), will also tend to occur if the box is not clean enough, or if there is fear of another cat in the household. Long haired or overweight cats that have trouble removing fecal matter during or after defecation may rush out of the box and then stop suddenly and begin grooming the perineal area or scooting to remove the fecal matter.
Regular veterinary exams and laboratory evaluations can help rule out pain secondary to arthritis, gastrointestinal problems such as parasites or inflammatory bowel diseases, urinary disorders and even behavior problems within the household.
Keeping your cat healthy and fit will improve activity and provide years of fun for the whole family watching these fast and furious felines as they “run for the roses”.
What? The laundry basket isn’t my toilet?
Inappropriate elimination (urinating and/or defecating outside the litter box) is one of the most common behavior issues for which veterinarians are consulted. It also is one of the number one reasons why cats are relinquished by owners to a shelter.
Causes for inappropriate elimination are numerous and include- preference or aversion for certain types of litter boxes, location of the box, and litter substrates. Other causes include litter cleanliness issues, aversion secondary to a painful or stressful event, and inadequate access either caused by physical inabilities or aggressor cats in the household.
Inappropriate elimination should not be confused with urine spraying, though in some cases urine spraying can be present in addition to inappropriate elimination issues.
Initially there may be physical problems associated with the inappropriate elimination; therefore, a urinalysis should be performed in all cases and sometimes fecal testing is required. In some cases blood work to screen for diseases such as kidney disease, diabetes, and hyperthyroidism should be performed.
Once underlying disease is ruled out or addressed, appropriate changes need to be made regarding the environment. These may consist of moving the box to a new location, addition of a new box, removing the hood or any liners, offering a different type of litter, addressing actual care and cleaning of the box, and addressing stressors in the environment such as bully cats, remodeling or other changes to the environment, new animals or people to the household, etc.
In the majority of cases hoods and liners should be removed. Hoods trap odor in the box and also provide limited access in and out of the box which can be perceived as a risk in the multi cat household. Most cats prefer unscented litters and litters that are soft. However, some cats prefer one substrate for urination and a different one for defecation. Clues can be gained by observing what surfaces the cat gravitates towards for urination/defecation within the house.
The box(es) should be scooped at least once daily and the litter should be completely changed and the box washed every week to 2 weeks. The litter boxes should be placed in quiet, less trafficked areas of the house. Laundry rooms (a common location for boxes) are usually noisy and more heavily trafficked so often they are not a good location. A good rule of thumb is one box per cat group plus one – where a group is one or more cats that like each other. So, if there are 3 cats in the house, and only two like each other, there should be 3 boxes. These should be placed in multiple locations throughout the house, on different levels in multi-level houses, and away from food and water sources.
Changes may need to be made in the environment such as adding additional cat trees or vertical spaces for cats to improve social interaction in multi-cat households. Clients may need to experiment with the depth of the litter as well. Older cats often have difficulty with deeper litter due to arthritis and boxes with higher sides can make access difficult.
If there are complex interactions between cats in the household, Feliway diffusers, collars with bells on the aggressor cats, or even medication may be needed.
Your veterinarian will take a thorough history and will usually want a schematic of the house that includes areas where your cat is inappropriately urinating or defecating, where the cat or cats spend most of their time sleeping, and locations of food, water, and the boxes. In addition, a history of care of the box, interactions between cats in the household, and any changes in the environment will be discussed. Medical issues will be ruled out and changes made based on lab findings and history.
Because of the complex and multi-factorial causes surrounding inappropriate elimination these cases can be difficult to diagnose and often require several changes to rectify the situation. The longer the behavior is left unchecked, the more difficult it can be to correct. As always, your veterinarian is the best resource when dealing with inappropriate elimination issues.
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